Jews in Suits: Men's Dress in Vienna, 1890-1938
Ebook
Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched.
Jews in Suits uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self.
The first book to examine the dress politics of a group of Jewish men who adopted the modern suit – the Jews of modernist Vienna – encompassing the years from the late 19th century to the National Socialist occupation of Austria (Anschluss) in 1938.
The first book to connect studies of modern and fashionable male dress with the famed fashionable and intellectual metropolis of Vienna
Explores the intersection of clothing/stylistics of the body, gender identity, and the formation and performance of modern Jewish identities during a period of immense social and cultural transformation
Offers an new cultural history of Jewish Vienna at the fin de siècle and up until WWII through the lens of clothing, including high fashion, folk costume and alternative dressing
List of Figures
Acknowledgements
A Note on Place Names
Introduction
1. Europe's Third Most Jewish City
2. Fashioning the Self, Dressing Society: Dress and Identity in Europe's Third Jewish Capital
3. Refashioning the Self: Acculturation, Assimilation, and Clothing
4. Strangers in the City: “Rootless” Jews and Urbanity in Vienna
5. Der kleine Cohn: Dress and the Function of Mocking through Caricature
6. The Man in the Suit: Jewish writers and their Clothing
Conclusion
Bibliography
Index
A pleasure to read … Kaplan has, with very real skill, produced a close analysis of the design and wearing of men's clothing in 19th- and early 20th-century Vienna … This text has left me sadder and wiser – with a far greater understanding of the roots and depth of anti-Semitism in Austria in this period.
This highly original study of Viennese Jewish men recreates their culture of clothing with clarity and imagination … Essential reading for those interested in men's dress and modernism.
This book offers fresh, new perspectives on the critical role of men's clothing in fashioning modern Jewish identities. Jews in Suits presents a thought-provoking examination of the sartorial habits of rabbis, politicians, authors and scientists, who granted themselves the authority to shine in the cultural scenes in Vienna and beyond.
Jews in Suits is an erudite, handsomely printed, and substantial book, by an emerging voice in Jewish
and Fashion Studies.
- Title: Jews in Suits: Men's Dress in Vienna, 1890-1938
- Author: Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum
- Publisher: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
- Print Publication Date: 2023
- Logos Release Date: 2024
- Language: English
- Resources: 1
- Format: Digital › Ebook
- ISBNs: 9781350244238, 9781350244207, 1350244201, 1350244236
- Resource ID: LLS:9781350244238
- Resource Type: Monograph
- Metadata Last Updated: 2024-04-17T12:19:40Z
Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum is an honorary adjunct fellow at the University of Technology Sydney, Australia, and education officer at the Sydney Jewish Museum. He holds a PhD in dress and design history from the Imagining Fashion Futures Research lab at the University of Technology Sydney, and has published on the intersections between dress, acculturation, and Jewish identity.